Female surfers have long been carving their paths in the male-dominated world of surfing. In celebration of International Women's Day, we had the privilege of talking with a remarkable group of female surfers. From conquering towering waves to challenging societal norms, these women shared their inspiring stories, and some thoughts on the surfing community in California.
Name: Joey
Why do you surf?
I surf because it's just like complete freedom. And it's an amazing way to connect with other women here in Venice, obviously, people I love.
When did you start surfing?
I started surfing when I was a kid. And then I moved to New York and lost track of it for like 15 years and got back into it in the last few years.
What are you surfing right now?
Yeah, I'm surfing a Torque. Okay, it's a six, eight. And it's a thruster setup.
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
I think my favorite surfing memory is learning to surf with my sisters when I was a little kid. I have two younger sisters and we had so much fun learning.
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
More events like this!
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
I mean, I would tell other surfers like just come out here. Just do it. Just get in the water. It's not as intimidating as you think.
Name: April
Why do you surf?
I surf because it is such a beautiful way to connect to nature and a way to be with the elements and find some calm and center myself.
When did you start surfing?
I first got to a board when I was like 30. I'm 44 now, but consistently the last seven years or eight years.
What is your favorite surfing memory?
Probably somewhere in warm water. Maybe, Costa Rica, for example. I remember surfing there and looking back, and you see beautiful topography? The visual of that is indescribable.
How can we make surfing more fun in Venice?
That's an excellent question. It would be nice if there was kind of like a gathering of local folks. And, there was more of a generosity and a community feel, which sometimes happens over time as you as you, you know, get to know people as you surf all the time. But you know, there's aggression that happens. You know, there's a lot of people in LA, and a lot of people love surfing. Yeah, just to remind people that nobody owns the water and share, and there are enough waves for everybody, so remember that. And also, like, how can we give back?
Is there anything you would want to tell other surfers?
What a blessing that we get to surf and that we've found this path and have this deep connection without words because we love to surf. So, awesome for us!
Name: Daisy
Why do you surf?
I'm trying right now. This is my first year, but I skateboard too and I always thought surfing seemed similar. So, now I'm in California I needed to learn to surf. I'm originally from Brazil.
What are you surfing right now?
Midland 74
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
I think the time that I stood up my first wave. Yeah, I thought oh, my God, I'm doing it!
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
I think people respect and support each other because sometimes, when you go surfing, the same people catch all the waves but don't let you go. I'm from the skateboard community, and we always let people go, but sometimes, I see the surfboarders aren’t as welcoming. But events like this are great because the energy in the water is much more welcoming. This is what I saw in the water today.
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
To support each other. Tell people, let's go, let's do that, You got it. Just really support each other.
Name: Emily
Why do you surf?
I surf because I can hang out with my friends. I can move my body and connect with nature and enjoy the ocean.
When did you start surfing?
I started surfing officially when I moved out to LA two years ago and found my community of surfers and made it a part of my daily routine.
What are you surfing right now?
Seven, four Wardo Mid-length. I ended up getting it from another person who lives in the community. And yeah, I love it.
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
Last July 4, some friends and I went down to Santo and camped out and enjoyed hanging on the beach. We cooked pancakes and surfed; it was pretty epic.
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
I think we should continue to do things like this or just bring people together to hang out, you know, on land and off land.
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
Share the waves
What’s your advice for new surfers?
Oh, don't be afraid to get out there. And I think you should find a friend or buddy you can surf with because I love that. I surf as much as I do because I have friends to surf with.
Name: Rox
Why do you surf?
I surf to get back to myself.
When did you start surfing?
Oh, my goodness. Too embarrassed to say seven years ago.
What are you surfing right now?
A Paragon
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
My favorite surfing memory is in Bali, in the middle of the ocean with no one around. My surfing instructor and I took a boat out, and I got plenty of rides.
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
Bring more women!
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
I would tell the women to stick with one another and hype each other up. And to the men out there, make space for us.
Name: Mimi
Why do you surf?
I surf because I love being in the water. I love the feeling it gives me, especially when it's big and gnarly. I like meeting people to this community, its sick.
When did you start surfing?
I started surfing when I was 10
What are you surfing right now?
I am surfing on me 55 Guy Okazaki
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
I got air on time at El Porto on a longboard, which is like a one time experience for me.
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
I donno, I mean, it's definitely gotten better. But the vibe used to be super gnarly. I don't know if there's a way to make it more fun. I mean, like, what's fun about surfing and surfing itself! I donno if there's any particular way to make it better in a certain area.
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
Ride Guy Okazaki surfboards.
Name: Andrea Jacqueline
Why do you surf?
I serve because I grew up on the beach, it’s part of my town culture. I grew up in Daytona Beach, Florida. It's very grounding and fun. And I was always into skating and surfing is kind of the evolution of that.
When did you start surfing?
I think I started with Surf camp when I was thirteen. I wanted to do it because I liked watching Rocket Power. I started skating when I was like nine or ten. And then I did surf camp when I was like, thirteen.
What are you surfing right now?
This is a 6-0 Fish, and its a quad fin
What’s your favorite surfing memory?
Surf trips are fun. It's always fun to go to a new place and surf new breaks. My most fun days are surfing Venice, when it's really good with my friends because it's so rare.
What can we do to make surfing more fun in Venice?
We can get more women out.
Anything you want to tell other surfers?
Sure that there's room for everybody to surf and be safe and have fun. And yeah, just to encourage more women to get out here and it just makes it more fun and safe for everybody like today.
Name: Reagan
Why do you Hula?
That's a good question because I only just started and I am in my 60s. You know, I had a couple of local friends and they were hooping at the beach for exercise. And just by word of mouth different friends start joining them. Mostly women and a few men. They are mostly in their fifty’s, sixties, and seventies. Six years ago during the Summer someone said why don’t we try so we did.
Whats your favorite hula hopping memory?
Oh my goodness, I don’t know. But I would say that just being Oceanside is just so therapeutic. So like even if the water is cold we can still come here have the ocean air. I just love being here. Especially in times like the pandemic.
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